· Can you financially support a horse?

Be honest with yourself about what else you’ll still want to do other than riding and caring for a horse. It is difficult to take a horse or Pony on holiday to Egypt for a week in the summer! And expensive for them to be in full Livery. Make sure you can financially support the dream, don’t think you can sort it all out later. It can be heartbreaking to be forced to give up your horse, as you will inevitably become much attached Remember that the cost of keeping can be as much as £5,000 pa.

· What do you want to do with your horse?

If you want just to have fun or you are looking for a companion, make sure you are looking at horses with affectionate natures, if you have competitive ambition look for horses with talent – possibly proven history of winnings or points. Even if you have a large budget to buy your horse, be totally honest about your riding ability or you could will find yourself having to part with the new love in your life or even worse become a victim of injury, riding can be a dangerous sport even for the most competent riders.

· What Is Your Budget?

Be realistic about your needs and your budget. If you don’t have lots to spend it will still be possible for you to find a suitable horse, be patient, do not rush into buying the wrong horse and be flexible with your search criteria. If you’re starting out in jumping, you don’t need an expensive Warmblood or Thoroughbred, try looking at All rounders or even cob type that may suit you better, it is important that you gain confidence and enjoy the sport and your riding, do not be tempted to out horse yourself. Be prepared to accept certain shortcomings in conformation, for example, if your funds won’t stretch to your ideal horse.

· Consider the Commitment and the time they will take up.

Consider your job and family commitments and your lifestyle. You may still be able to fit in a horse, but only with compromise, it may be that a horse share is a good compromise and will work really well for you, offering a lot of enjoyment, sharing the cost and the time commitment. You need to be good planning your time and be committed to hard work. When it comes to making your choice, remember that n older steady hack won’t demand as much of your time as a young competition horse that needs careful pampering and daily schooling.

· Ensure you have the knowledge to care for your horse correctly.

DIY means that you look after the horse yourself at the yard, this is hard work and time consuming, but will pay out less. Full or part-livery is a safer bet for those on a tight schedule or requiring support while they learn about caring for a horse, but the costs can mount up very quickly.

· Make sure you can cover all the additional costs that having a horse or pony involves.

Initial vetting fees, transport costs, tack including rugs, head collars, hay nets, feed buckets, water butts, bedding, tack, feed, hay/haylage, grooming equipment, field supplies, riding clothing, etc etc

· Consider what difficulties you could be left in if you’re unwell, injured or go on holiday, do you have someone who is willing and able to care for your horse or pony.

Sharing might be an option – talk to friend and other riders at your yard.

· If you are thinking of buying a second horse?

Have you decided what you intend to do with your present four legged friend? One horse can be expensive and time consuming, two is double the cost and double the time (double trouble, just like having twins!) in most cases, ensure you have the finances and the time to care for them properly.

Understanding the law when buying a horse

In the eyes of the law, horses are classed as goods and the same laws that govern other goods purchases apply to buying a horse. However, your protection depends upon whether the sale is a private or business transaction. Business sales, such as purchases through a dealer, are covered under the Sale of Goods Act 1979. Private sales fall under the ‘buyer beware’ category. For further information, see Julie Mackenzie’s book Horse Law (JA Allen).

Most reputable dealers will offer to exchange your horse within a set period of time if you are unhappy.

With private horse sales, it may not be possible to return the horse, you may have to put the horse in training or sell him on. If this happens, don’t put you off buying again. Do what you can to develop the horse to your needs and learn from the experience. Above all, don’t keep a horse that is not right for you it will spoil your enjoyment and empty your wallet!

All horses should now have a passport – ensure the horse you are enquiring about has got a passport already.

Buying a horse or pony for the first time is an exciting experience. It’s easy to get carried away by a big set of brown eyes, even though the horse batting them may not be the best beginner horse. But the wrong horse can ruin the fun of riding or driving and may be unsafe. Learn to avoid the top mistakes that new horse buyers make.

Buying a green horse

Many experienced horsemen and women will tell you they see this too often. Because green horses are often cheaper, or for whatever other whim, beginner riders will choose untrained horses. Don’t buy a horse that you plan to train yourself or even send to a trainer. Training can take months. It can be dangerous if not done right. Young or inexperienced mature horses are not reliable. Beginners will be safer and happier with a horse they can enjoy the moment it gets off the trailer.

Dismissing older horses

An older horse, who has seen the world, makes a great first time beginner horse. Beginners might shy away from a horse into their late teens and twenties. But many healthy, sound horses can be ridden well into their senior years. In fact, light daily exercise, such as a quiet hack or drive may be beneficial to both horse and rider/driver.

Buying a young horse for their children to ‘grow up with’

This is a romantic notion, but the reality is that young horses and young beginner riders or drivers are not a safe mix. Buy your kids a mature, well trained horse they can saddle or harness up the same day you bring it home. Buy a horse that knows how to handle itself when all the scary aspects of the world present themselves—because a young beginner won’t know how. On an older, well trained horse or pony kids will learn and have fun in greater safety.

Buying at Auction

It takes a keen eye to pull a good horse out of an auction. Horses can appear docile at auction because they are so confused they ‘freeze’. Horses can be drugged to make them look calm or healthy.

Impulse buying

Don’t buy a horse on first sight. Try the horse out, try it again, ask lots of questions. Go home and think about it for a few days. Look at other horses besides the one you’re smitten with and make comparisons. Be absolutely sure you’ve chosen the horse most suitable for you.

Not Asking for a Trial Period

Don’t be afraid to ask the seller for a trial period. Most private owners want their horses to go to good homes, and are confident about the type of person they feel can handle the horse. Many dealers will agree on a trial period, or help you find another horse if the one you are looking at doesn’t work out. Just ask. And if you get a ‘no’ answer, ask why. There may be a valid reason. Or an unethical one.

Buying a Horse to Breed

Do you want to buy a horse so you can breed it and have a foal? Before you do visit an auction where horses are destined for rendering or meat. Pay attention to how many look like the result of backyard breeding experiments. Consider if you can live with this outcome for a horse you have brought into this world. Horses should be bred because they have outstanding qualities to pass on. The fact that you love it or think it would have a really cute foal is not an outstanding quality.

Buying “Too Much Horse”.

You may envision yourself jumping 5 ft. concrete culverts in a cross country event. But the reality is you’ve only been riding six months. The type of horse required for high performance sports may not be the one suitable for safe learning. Buy a horse to match your skill and fitness level, not one to match a dream that may not come true for 5 years or even vanish.

Buying a Horse of a Particular Color

While it is perfectly reasonable to want to own a special coat pattern horse like a palomino or scewbald it isn’t wise to buy for color only. If you have a choice of several horses, and all are of the same sane mind, and good training, of course buy the color you like. But don’t base your decision on the color if the mind and training aren’t suitable. When buying a car the adage is ‘you don’t drive the paint’. With horses, you don’t ride/drive the color.

Not Considering the Time and Expense of Horse Care

Horse ownership is a big responsibility. Horses don’t stop eating and drinking on the weekend when you want to go away. The expenses don’t stop because you want to spend the money elsewhere, or you’ve been unable to work. Be honest about the time and money you are able to spend on a horse. It’s okay to admit you love horses, but would rather spend £30 on a riding lesson or riding lesson occasionally and leave all the other expense and fuss to someone else.

The full 5 stage examination consists of:

Stage 1 – Preliminary examination

This is methodical examination of the animal’s body to assess general appearance and condition. It includes examination of the teeth, the resting heart, the eyes by ophthalmoscope, the skin, the limbs and feet, and flexion of the limb joints to reveal pain or limitation of movement.

Stage 2 – Trotting up

The animal is walked and trotted on hard, level ground in order to detect gross abnormalities of gait and action.

Stage 3 – Strenuous exercise

The animal is given sufficient strenuous exercise

(1) to make it breathe deeply and rapidly so that any unusual breathing sounds may be heard.

(2) to increase the action of the heart so that abnormalities may be more

easily detected injuries may be revealed by stiffness or lameness after a period of rest. ; and (3) to tire the animal so that any existing strains and

Stage 4 – A period of rest

The horse is allowed to stand quietly for a period. During this time the breathing and heart are checked as they return to their resting levels.

Stage 5 – The second trot and foot examination

The horse is walked and trotted again, turned sharply and backed, in order to reveal abnormalities exacerbated by the strenuous exercise stage.

Viewing and Vetting

Looking around for a horse or pony to buy is the first expense to be incurred on the path to horse ownership. Looking at potential purchases may mean traveling many miles to view a horse or pony and when a suitable horse is found it is wise to have the horse vetted. This can cost between £75-£250 depending on whether a basic insurance or 5 stage vetting is carried out and of course if one potential purchase fails the vetting or the purchase falls through for another reason it is necessary to start over again.

Purchase Cost

The cost of buying the horse or pony can vary immensely depending on the age, experience and type of horse and may be anything from £100 for a youngster upwards to several thousands of pounds for a more experienced horse.

Sales Agreement

Once a purchase is agreed it can be wise to tie up the purchase with a legal document setting out the terms for the sale of the horse or pony. This can be done through a solicitor at a cost of around £100.

Equipment

Many horses and ponies are sold with their existing tack, or their existing tack may be available to purchase from the seller at a reasonable price. However, if no tack or equipment is available then this is an additional expense to be considered. A synthetic or second-hand saddle can cost from around £200 upwards with bridles available for £20 upwards. However a new leather saddle can cost around £700 and a good quality bridle can be expected to cost in the region of £50.

Unless to be totally stabled, depending on the type of horse and its use the horse or pony may need two turnout rugs for winter. It is necessary to have two turnout rugs so that when one is wet or being repaired, the second can be used. Turnout rugs can cost £80 upwards and for the stabled horse in winter, or one kept in a stable at night then a Stable Rug or two will also be needed for extra warmth costing around £50 or more each.

There is also other equipment that will be needed to be purchased such as headcollar, leadrope, numnahs, tack box and grooming kit so there is likely to be another £150 or so to spend out in preparing for horse ownership.

These views may be expressed verbally or in writing, such as in an advertisement.

“Describing a horse as ‘highly desirable’, having ‘great potential’ or ‘ideal for bringing on for dressage‘ are examples of these views; but such ’sales talk’ will normally have no legal effect,” explained Stuart Farr, of Laytons Solicitors.

“Other comments, however, may be more factual and specific and will go to the heart of a horse’s condition or capabilities. A purchaser may rely on such ‘representations’ when buying.

“In this context, a ‘misrepresentation’ is essentially an untrue statement of fact made by a seller that is relied on and induces a purchaser to buy the horse in question.”

Stuart gives the example of a seller who wrongly asserts that a horse performs to advanced level dressage.

The seller may be exposed to a claim from a buyer who bought the horse in reliance of that statement and subsequently discovers that the horse has no skills in dressage.

“Stating that a horse has potential to do something in the future, however, may be closer to an expression of opinion rather than fact, although much will depend on whether the person making the statement has specialist expertise or knowledge,” Stuart said.

“There are various types of misrepresentation — fraudulent, negligent or innocent.

“Depending on the type of misrepresentation alleged, an aggrieved purchaser will usually claim damages. In addition, the contract may be ’set aside’, or legally annulled, in order to return the parties to their original positions.”