· Can you financially support a horse?

Be honest with yourself about what else you’ll still want to do other than riding and caring for a horse. It is difficult to take a horse or Pony on holiday to Egypt for a week in the summer! And expensive for them to be in full Livery. Make sure you can financially support the dream, don’t think you can sort it all out later. It can be heartbreaking to be forced to give up your horse, as you will inevitably become much attached Remember that the cost of keeping can be as much as £5,000 pa.

· What do you want to do with your horse?

If you want just to have fun or you are looking for a companion, make sure you are looking at horses with affectionate natures, if you have competitive ambition look for horses with talent – possibly proven history of winnings or points. Even if you have a large budget to buy your horse, be totally honest about your riding ability or you could will find yourself having to part with the new love in your life or even worse become a victim of injury, riding can be a dangerous sport even for the most competent riders.

· What Is Your Budget?

Be realistic about your needs and your budget. If you don’t have lots to spend it will still be possible for you to find a suitable horse, be patient, do not rush into buying the wrong horse and be flexible with your search criteria. If you’re starting out in jumping, you don’t need an expensive Warmblood or Thoroughbred, try looking at All rounders or even cob type that may suit you better, it is important that you gain confidence and enjoy the sport and your riding, do not be tempted to out horse yourself. Be prepared to accept certain shortcomings in conformation, for example, if your funds won’t stretch to your ideal horse.

· Consider the Commitment and the time they will take up.

Consider your job and family commitments and your lifestyle. You may still be able to fit in a horse, but only with compromise, it may be that a horse share is a good compromise and will work really well for you, offering a lot of enjoyment, sharing the cost and the time commitment. You need to be good planning your time and be committed to hard work. When it comes to making your choice, remember that n older steady hack won’t demand as much of your time as a young competition horse that needs careful pampering and daily schooling.

· Ensure you have the knowledge to care for your horse correctly.

DIY means that you look after the horse yourself at the yard, this is hard work and time consuming, but will pay out less. Full or part-livery is a safer bet for those on a tight schedule or requiring support while they learn about caring for a horse, but the costs can mount up very quickly.

· Make sure you can cover all the additional costs that having a horse or pony involves.

Initial vetting fees, transport costs, tack including rugs, head collars, hay nets, feed buckets, water butts, bedding, tack, feed, hay/haylage, grooming equipment, field supplies, riding clothing, etc etc

· Consider what difficulties you could be left in if you’re unwell, injured or go on holiday, do you have someone who is willing and able to care for your horse or pony.

Sharing might be an option – talk to friend and other riders at your yard.

· If you are thinking of buying a second horse?

Have you decided what you intend to do with your present four legged friend? One horse can be expensive and time consuming, two is double the cost and double the time (double trouble, just like having twins!) in most cases, ensure you have the finances and the time to care for them properly.

Understanding the law when buying a horse

In the eyes of the law, horses are classed as goods and the same laws that govern other goods purchases apply to buying a horse. However, your protection depends upon whether the sale is a private or business transaction. Business sales, such as purchases through a dealer, are covered under the Sale of Goods Act 1979. Private sales fall under the ‘buyer beware’ category. For further information, see Julie Mackenzie’s book Horse Law (JA Allen).

Most reputable dealers will offer to exchange your horse within a set period of time if you are unhappy.

With private horse sales, it may not be possible to return the horse, you may have to put the horse in training or sell him on. If this happens, don’t put you off buying again. Do what you can to develop the horse to your needs and learn from the experience. Above all, don’t keep a horse that is not right for you it will spoil your enjoyment and empty your wallet!

All horses should now have a passport – ensure the horse you are enquiring about has got a passport already.

The mane and tail is the best place to start. Spray on a detangler and let it dry before removing the burrs from the tail and the long, unpulled mane. To start you should gently pick each burr out by hand and untangle the knots to your best ability before you use a comb since this will come in later steps.

Next you should use a currycomb to give the horse a good grooming that will loosen the dried mud or ground in dirt. Use a stiff brush and then finish off with a soft brush. The head and bony areas of the legs should be brushed with care and a softer grooming tool.

After the dirt is gone you should pick a warm day to give the horse a bath with an antifungal shampoo. Follow the direction on the label so that you can stop any potential or existing skin problems. Water repelling oils on the coat are removed during the bathing process so you should bath them when there is no forecast for rain otherwise you will want to give them a waterproof blanket or sheet before turning them out. The horse should have time for their natural waterproofing to return before they get wet.

Use a clean towel to dry your horse as completely as possible after the rinsing and scraping. Again spray the mane and tail with a detangler. A horse can be allowed to finish drying in comfort by covering them with an antisweat sheet and then a wool cooler in case the weather is still a bit chilly.

Use a cream rinse after washing if you have a horse with a long, tangled mane or tail. Human products work well, but there are also several products that are specifically made for horses. Use a wide toothed plastic comb to gently comb the mane. Use your fingers to pick out any bad tangles if necessary. It may be tempting to use scissors but the resulting mess will take months to grow out completely. You can put the mane at the desire length once you have completely gotten rid of any tangles.

Pulling on the tangles will not only thin but also shorten the horse’s mane and tail and over the winter naturally thin manes will have gotten longer so pulling can cause it to become too thin. A better option is to backcomb and cut to the desired length while using a stripping comb.

Caring for tails has some debate and many think the tails of a horse should never be combed. If you decide to brush you should start at the bottom of the tail with a soft brush and work upward. Use your fingers to loosen any bad tangles and brush out a few hairs at a time. This may be a time consuming process, but periodically using detangler spray can help you to maintain a beautiful and long tail with not much effort.

Trim the hair under the horses chin, the long whiskers on the nose, the hair that grows outside the ears and the long fetlock hair in order to have a good finished look. Leave the long hairs around the eyes and coronet band in addition to the hair inside the ears unless you plan on showing the horse. For spring checkups you should always schedule the horse for a visit with a farrier and vet.

The logistics of washing and shampooing a horse do require some pre-planning in order to avoid common mistakes that will cost you time and most likely also try your patience. Begin by picking out a spot that will not turn into a muddy mess as soon as you turn on the water. Similarly, find an adequate post to which to tie the horse and gather the supplies you will need. Consider wearing clothes that can get wet without leaving you soaked to the skin; find some rubber gloves to protect your hands, and get the shampoo.

When it comes to selecting the proper shampoo for your horse, you will need to resist the urge to simply use regular cleaners that are not specially formulated for these animals. If you wash your horse frequently, you will need to select a more gentle shampoo than if you only do so upon occasion. Additionally, there are several different shampoo formulas available, depending on your need. Purchase the kind of shampoo that matches your horses’ needs the best. Shampoos formulated for horses are pH-balanced for the animals’ sensitive skin which is also host to a number of beneficial bacteria which – if damaged or destroyed – will lead to severe skin problems.

Once you have chosen the proper spot to wash your horse and the animal is securely tied to a post, mix the shampoo with lukewarm water in an easily accessible bucket. The amount of water will depend on the concentration of the shampoo – be sure to follow the directions! Beginning with the animal’s feet and working upward, hose down the horse slowly and gently until you finish by wetting its back. After the animal is completely wet, use a sponge to transfer the soapy water to the animal. Work in the shampoo with a grooming mitt and do not be afraid to take your time until you are certain that the dirt, grime, and dead skin cells have been worked out. Hose away dirtied suds and apply soap once more. Ensure that the parts of the horse that have been shampooed do not dry out but instead keep them adequately moist. Keeping in mind that horses detest having their heads washed, be sure to use less shampoo so that you will have to do less rinsing. Cleansing of the nostrils and the inside of the ears should be done with a moist cloth. The tail can be immersed in a bucket of soapy water and then massaged in the same way that you would shampoo the hair on your head. A specially formulated conditioner for the tail and mane will round out the bath.

When you are ready for a final rinse, it is important to begin at the top and work your way down, being sure to wash out all of the shampoo to avoid a dull looking coat and irritated skin. While you are rinsing off the animal, continue to employ the grooming mitt. After the final rinse you will be able to remove excess water with a sweat scraper before you towel dry the animal. Some horse owners find that walking the animal after a bath until the coat has dried will minimize the chances of the horse rolling in dry, dusty hay to get dry.

Don’t take this guide completely accurately as some sources may be wrong, some horses may be allergic to the fruit or vegetables below so take care in what you do feed them.

Safe Fruits

Safe Vegetables

Feeding Tips

Always remove any pips from pitted fruit – these can be very dangerous to horses

If in any doubt, leave it out!

Feed in moderation.

UNSAFE Fruit

UNSAFE Vegetables

Sara Tuppen from the Horse Refuge in Wittersham Kent, knows all about looking after horses when money is scarce, having to rely solely on donations to keep over 40 rescued horses in good health.She believes there are a few points which could help make owning a horse on a budget a little easier:

1. Many horses can live quite happily outside for most of the year, as long as there’s food, water and shelter available. If this is a suitable option for your horse, it could reduce the cost of stabling considerably.

2. Removing shoes is an easy way to keep costs down. If not ridden regularly, or on rocky ground, many horses will not need shoes.

3. Sharing your horse is a great way to cut (even halve!) costs and provides a cheaper introduction to horse ownership for someone else.

4. In many cases you can get free stabling and occasionally hay and bedding in return for chores. Mucking out, grooming, maintenance etc. are all jobs which could save you money for a little hard work!

5. Vets bills are an unknown factor but still have to be considered. If money’s a little tight, you may find a lot of Vets will allow you to spread the cost, and pay in instalments.

6. Many people can make lifestyle changes! It’s not all about finding ways to keep your horse more cheaply, see if you can do it for yourself!

7. Wherever possible, horse owners can often club together to buy feed and bedding in bulk, reducing the overall price and passing on savings to all.

8. As a last resort, you can look into getting your horse a foster home, even as a companion.

There are many ways in which The Horse Refuge can help. If you would like any more information, or would like to donate, please call Sara on 01797 270555 or visit http://www.horserefuge.org

Surviving a recession or credit crunch is difficult enough, but when you have horses and ponies which rely on you for food, shelter and medical attention, every little bit helps.

http://www.horseandponydirectory.com

I spent a good deal of time around horses growing up, and saw the types of incidents that could lead to injuries or a court case on a regular basis. I came to learn there were ways to protect yourself if you think ahead and a great way to that is as simple as signing a piece of paper. Er, sort of…

There are many different types of insurance for a horse. You should consider what is often called Equine (or livestock) Liability Insurance. This type of policy protects your assets in the event your horse causes property damage or injury to someone and they try to sue you. Included is usually limited coverage to others in the event of medical expenses and property damage up to a specified amount.

Holding an equine insurance policy can also afford you legal help should a lawsuit ever take place outside the scope of what your policy can protect. This is often an added policy cost, but can be well worth it if your horses are boarded or in regular contact with the public. All policy costs will vary depending on what provider you choose, the market you are in and what your individual negotiations entail.

Contrary to common belief, bran mashes are not a good foodstuff for horses due to the inappropriate calcium to phosphorus ratio. The high phosphorus and low calcium content of this feed stuff makes it a poor choice for regular feeding, especially to senior horses who tend to already have low calcium. Bran mashes also do not help to prevent colic or “clear a horse’s gut” according to university run studies.

Bran can still be given as an occasional treat, but in general it should not be a regular part of a horse’s diet. Rather for a warm meal, the horse’s regular concentrate feed with warm water added is a better choice both for diet balance and because sudden changes in diet (including feeding a meal of bran) actually increase the risk of colic.

How to make Bran Mash

Ingredients:

3 lbs bran (either wheat or rice)

¼ cup molasses

1 cup grated carrot

4 cups hot water (approximately)

Slowly combine the water and bran in a large bucket. Once thoroughly mixed, add the molasses and carrot. For a different taste, try substituting apple sauce and diced apple for the molasses and carrot. Then add any supplements, such as flax seed or medications, and allow the mixture to cool before feeding.

Loaning or leasing a horse often appears to be an attractive solution, both for the owner who may not have enough time to look after the horse but does not want to sell it, and for those looking for a horse without the capital required for initial purchase. However, such arrangements can be rife with potential problems. Frequently the arrangement is by word of mouth only, and when something goes wrong it can be the animal that ultimately suffers.

The BHS advocates that in all cases there should be a written agreement signed by both parties. Although not essential it is advisable to have the agreement written by a solicitor, or at the least viewed by one, with the responsibilities of both parties clearly defined, and be fair and reasonable Under no circumstances should a horse be put on loan or out to lease if it is suffering any kind of illness or lameness. As with selling a horse it should be sound and fit for the purpose for which it is being loaned or leased.

Horse owners considering loaning or leasing their horse need to think through carefully their reasons for doing so and make the decision based on what is best for the horse. It may be that the animal is incurably unsound or elderly and the owner can no longer afford to keep it in which case it may be advisable to discuss with the vet whether humane destruction would be the best option.

The BHS has a series of ‘Guide to’ welfare leaflets offering advice and guidance on a range of issues involving looking after horses including ‘Loaning or Leasing’ For a free copy please send a stamped addressed envelope to: The British Horse Society, Welfare Department, Stoneleigh Deer Park, Kenilworth, Warwickshire CV8 2XZ quoting the leaflet required.

Having a stable available to you whether your horse lives out or not can prove to be extremely worthwhile, especially during the dark nights associated with the winter months. It may also be of use should your horse be injured and therefore required to take a period of box rest.

Some livery yards may offer staff care during the week, with the horse owner responsible for the care of the horse at weekends, other livery yards may offer staff care in the mornings with the horse owner responsible for care of the horse in the evenings. Some livery yards may include some exercising of the horse within their part livery service. This type of livery is ideal for those horse owners whose work schedule makes it difficult for them to attend to their horse twice a day, 7 days a week. The cost may be between £40 – £90 per week, varying with duties or items that may or may not be included.

Buying a horse or pony for the first time is an exciting experience. It’s easy to get carried away by a big set of brown eyes, even though the horse batting them may not be the best beginner horse. But the wrong horse can ruin the fun of riding or driving and may be unsafe. Learn to avoid the top mistakes that new horse buyers make.

Buying a green horse

Many experienced horsemen and women will tell you they see this too often. Because green horses are often cheaper, or for whatever other whim, beginner riders will choose untrained horses. Don’t buy a horse that you plan to train yourself or even send to a trainer. Training can take months. It can be dangerous if not done right. Young or inexperienced mature horses are not reliable. Beginners will be safer and happier with a horse they can enjoy the moment it gets off the trailer.

Dismissing older horses

An older horse, who has seen the world, makes a great first time beginner horse. Beginners might shy away from a horse into their late teens and twenties. But many healthy, sound horses can be ridden well into their senior years. In fact, light daily exercise, such as a quiet hack or drive may be beneficial to both horse and rider/driver.

Buying a young horse for their children to ‘grow up with’

This is a romantic notion, but the reality is that young horses and young beginner riders or drivers are not a safe mix. Buy your kids a mature, well trained horse they can saddle or harness up the same day you bring it home. Buy a horse that knows how to handle itself when all the scary aspects of the world present themselves—because a young beginner won’t know how. On an older, well trained horse or pony kids will learn and have fun in greater safety.

Buying at Auction

It takes a keen eye to pull a good horse out of an auction. Horses can appear docile at auction because they are so confused they ‘freeze’. Horses can be drugged to make them look calm or healthy.

Impulse buying

Don’t buy a horse on first sight. Try the horse out, try it again, ask lots of questions. Go home and think about it for a few days. Look at other horses besides the one you’re smitten with and make comparisons. Be absolutely sure you’ve chosen the horse most suitable for you.

Not Asking for a Trial Period

Don’t be afraid to ask the seller for a trial period. Most private owners want their horses to go to good homes, and are confident about the type of person they feel can handle the horse. Many dealers will agree on a trial period, or help you find another horse if the one you are looking at doesn’t work out. Just ask. And if you get a ‘no’ answer, ask why. There may be a valid reason. Or an unethical one.

Buying a Horse to Breed

Do you want to buy a horse so you can breed it and have a foal? Before you do visit an auction where horses are destined for rendering or meat. Pay attention to how many look like the result of backyard breeding experiments. Consider if you can live with this outcome for a horse you have brought into this world. Horses should be bred because they have outstanding qualities to pass on. The fact that you love it or think it would have a really cute foal is not an outstanding quality.

Buying “Too Much Horse”.

You may envision yourself jumping 5 ft. concrete culverts in a cross country event. But the reality is you’ve only been riding six months. The type of horse required for high performance sports may not be the one suitable for safe learning. Buy a horse to match your skill and fitness level, not one to match a dream that may not come true for 5 years or even vanish.

Buying a Horse of a Particular Color

While it is perfectly reasonable to want to own a special coat pattern horse like a palomino or scewbald it isn’t wise to buy for color only. If you have a choice of several horses, and all are of the same sane mind, and good training, of course buy the color you like. But don’t base your decision on the color if the mind and training aren’t suitable. When buying a car the adage is ‘you don’t drive the paint’. With horses, you don’t ride/drive the color.

Not Considering the Time and Expense of Horse Care

Horse ownership is a big responsibility. Horses don’t stop eating and drinking on the weekend when you want to go away. The expenses don’t stop because you want to spend the money elsewhere, or you’ve been unable to work. Be honest about the time and money you are able to spend on a horse. It’s okay to admit you love horses, but would rather spend £30 on a riding lesson or riding lesson occasionally and leave all the other expense and fuss to someone else.