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	<title>The Rider Online &#187; Stable</title>
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		<title>Types of Livery</title>
		<link>http://www.therideronline.co.uk/types-of-livery/</link>
		<comments>http://www.therideronline.co.uk/types-of-livery/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 22:02:14 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Stable]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Livery]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.therideronline.co.uk/?p=1578</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[DIY Field/Grass Livery
This type of livery provides the horse owner with a field in which to keep their horse. The horse owner is responsible for all care and feeding of the horse on a daily basis. This type of livery requires the horse owner to attend to the horse every day even if no feeding [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>DIY Field/Grass Livery</strong></div>
<div>This type of livery provides the horse owner with a field in which to keep their horse. The horse owner is responsible for all care and feeding of the horse on a daily basis. This type of livery requires the horse owner to attend to the horse every day even if no feeding is necessary, in order to ascertain that the horse has suffered no injury or illness each day.</div>
<div><strong> </strong></div>
<div><strong>DIY Stabled Livery</strong></div>
<div>DIY livery is the least expensive option, apart from having your own land, and costs can vary greatly between the rent of a field and the provision of a stable and existing facilities (usually between £10 &#8211; £25 per week). It does however require the most time and dedication from you. All responsibilities for your horse will be your own, including the provision of all feed and bedding together with any other costs that may have otherwise been included in a full livery package. Your horse is unlikely to be provided with 24hour supervision, which he may receive at a riding school or livery yard. DIY is a similar option to keeping your horse at home but without the added requirement of the need for your own space and land.</div>
<p>Having a stable available to you whether your horse lives out or not can prove to be extremely worthwhile, especially during the dark nights associated with the winter months. It may also be of use should your horse be injured and therefore required to take a period of box rest.</p>
<div><strong>Part Livery</strong></div>
<div>This type of livery is similar to DIY Stabled livery but the day to day care of the horse is shared by the owner and livery yard staff and the care routine will vary from yard to yard.</div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Some livery yards may offer staff care during the week, with the horse owner responsible for the care of the horse at weekends, other livery yards may offer staff care in the mornings with the horse owner responsible for care of the horse in the evenings. Some livery yards may include some exercising of the horse within their part livery service. This type of livery is ideal for those horse owners whose work schedule makes it difficult for them to attend to their horse twice a day, 7 days a week. The cost may be between £40 &#8211; £90 per week, varying with duties or items that may or may not be included.</p>
<div><strong>Full Livery</strong></div>
<div>Full Livery provides the<strong> </strong>owner with a stable in which to keep their horse and a field in which to turn their horse out during the day, full livery usually also includes bedding, hay and feed. Livery yard staff are responsible for all care including mucking out, turning out the horse to the field and bringing the horse in from the field and feeding of the horse on a daily basis. Some livery yards may include exercising of the horse within their full livery service. Full livery requires the least in the way of time commitment from you, although you must always ensure that your horse receives sufficient exercise and handling time from somebody else if not yourself. Full Livery is an expensive option costing between £70-£135 per week. All costs will depend on the size, breed and general requirements of your horse, i.e. a larger horse will need more feed, a bigger stable and therefore more bedding. The cost should, however, include the provision of all feed and bedding to your horse and the fulfilment of all day to day duties of care. Shoeing is unlikely to be included in the bill, neither will vet fees.</div>
<div><strong> </strong></div>
<div><strong>Working Livery</strong></div>
<div>Working livery is usually available at riding schools or equestrian centres. It involves the use of your horse by the yard for a set number of hours per week in return for their keep, although there will usually be an additional charge. Worming costs, shoeing bills and certainly veterinarian&#8217;s bills are normally an added cost payable by you. The disadvantages are that you may have very little say as to when your horse is used and by whom; the riding school may have a large number of different riders who could vary greatly in standard. Working livery costs are lower than part or full livery prices ranging from around £25 up to £50 per week in the UK dependent upon the management needs of the horse and the total number of hours the horse will be used by the school.</div>
<div><strong> </strong></div>
<div><strong>Schooling/Breaking Livery</strong></div>
<div>The horse is kept at livery at grass or stabled with livery yard staff responsible for the daily care of the horse. The livery also includes schooling of the horse or training leading to backing of the young horse, usually for 5-6 days of the week.</div>
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		<title>Buying Hay</title>
		<link>http://www.therideronline.co.uk/buying-hay/</link>
		<comments>http://www.therideronline.co.uk/buying-hay/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2009 21:53:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Stable]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hay]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.therideronline.co.uk/?p=1229</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When you buy hay you will probably be buying it in bulk so its a good idea to look around and make sure that you inspect all of the hay that you are buying to make sure it is good quality. Here are some tips that will help you figure out if the hay you [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;">When you buy hay you will probably be buying it in bulk so its a good idea to look around and make sure that you inspect all of the hay that you are buying to make sure it is good quality. Here are some tips that will help you figure out if the hay you are buying is high quality or not.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Ask what cutting the hay is. Second and third cuttings have more protein and are usually more expensive. Horses only need hay that has about 10-12% protein but second and third cuttings can be 18-24% protein. That&#8217;s a lot more protein then you need so don&#8217;t get suckered into paying more for a second or third cutting. First cuttings are usually just fine for horses.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">If you are buying baled hay always inspect the middle of the bales, not just the ends, for bugs or beetles. If you see any beetles or insects in the hay don&#8217;t buy it.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The hay should be dry. If the hay is baled, check in the middle to make sure it&#8217;s dry all the way through. If the hay isn&#8217;t dry then it could get moldy fast.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Check for mold. If hay is left out in the rain or if there is heavy dew then the hay can get wet and it can start to mold. If any of the hay looks moldy or if you sneeze and wheeze when you are around it, send the hay back. Moldy hay can cause serious health problems for you and your horse.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Check the weed content. If you see a lot of weeds then do not buy the hay. Some weeds can be poisonous to horses. There should never be weeds in any type of hay.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The hay should be green and healthy looking. If the hay is dusty or looks old and faded then don&#8217;t buy it. Dust can cause respiratory problems for you and your horse and old hay has little nutritional value.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">When you bring home a new horse and you are buying hay for the first time, it&#8217;s a good idea to ask other horse owners in the area where they buy hay. If other horse owners trust a local farm to deliver high quality hay then you can be pretty sure that the hay from that farm will be good quality. Don&#8217;t be afraid to ask other horse owners for recommendations when it comes to things like finding a hay supplier, a grain store, a vet, or a farrier.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a class="highslide" onclick="return vz.expand(this)" href="http://www.therideronline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/hay-bales.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1236" title="hay-bales" src="http://www.therideronline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/hay-bales.jpg" alt="hay-bales" width="400" height="260" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"> </p>
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		<title>Bedding</title>
		<link>http://www.therideronline.co.uk/bedding/</link>
		<comments>http://www.therideronline.co.uk/bedding/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:47:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Stable]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bedding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.therideronline.co.uk/?p=1063</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Don&#8217;t let your horse stand on wet or hard floors. Horses need extra cushion and dryness in their stables to help promote healthy hooves and overall general health. Horse bedding provides comfort and warmth for your horse and provides traction to help keep your horse from slipping.
Bedding materials today are excellent for maintaining such conditions. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t let your horse stand on wet or hard floors. Horses need extra cushion and dryness in their stables to help promote healthy hooves and overall general health. Horse bedding provides comfort and warmth for your horse and provides traction to help keep your horse from slipping.</p>
<p>Bedding materials today are excellent for maintaining such conditions. Traditional straw bedding is still available and popular, and provided it is clean and dust free, makes an excellent bed. The disadvantage of straw is the amount of waste that is generated with its use, which in turn may result in more work for you and increase in cost to dispose.</p>
<p>Many horse owners have turned to sawdust and wood shavings to help eliminate horse health concerns of dust and spores often present in straw and for better absorbency and reduced waste. Though saw dust does improve upon absorbency, it does not eliminate the dust problem entirely. Wood shavings on the other hand cut down further on dust, but do not absorb as much moisture and are slow to decompose in the compost pile.</p>
<p><strong>Good Characteristics of Horse Bedding:</strong></p>
<p>A horse bedding with a high level of absorbency allows liquid waste to be contained in small areas so less bedding becomes dirty. The smaller amounts of contaminated bedding is quicker to clean and makes the bedding less expensive by reducing the amount of bedding required, and saves on the time and effort required for mucking out.</p>
<p>Rubber matting is a fairly new innovation providing a warmer, softer and more comfortable stable floor for your horse than concrete, brick, dirt, or wood flooring. Rubber matting also greatly reduces the amount of bedding required. A downside is horses don&#8217;t like to lie down on bare mats. They prefer the comfort of a bedded area. So even though mats cut down on the amount of bedding needed, be kind to your horse and provide him with enough soft bedding to make him feel comfortable enough to lie down.</p>
<p>The most important factor to consider when choosing bedding is the health of your horse. Damp or wet bedding softens the horse&#8217;s hooves and provides a bacterial breeding ground. Bedding that does not absorb well also allows more ammonia to be released and can irritate your horse&#8217;s respiratory system, not to mention yours. Dusty or moldy bedding can also be a respiratory irritant. As a horse owner, the reality is you also have to factor in the cost and maintenance required to keep your horse&#8217;s bedding in good condition. Good mucking methods will help to reduce waste and though some bedding products are seemingly more expensive at first, are often cheaper in the long run since it results in less waste.</p>
<p><strong>What are Some of the Horse Bedding Choices?</strong></p>
<p><em>Straw</em>. Common bedding used by many; however, it is not quite as common as it once was with many horse owners turning to processed wood shavings. Straw is not as absorbent as other commercially available bedding, but is often relatively inexpensive and decomposes quickly in your compost. Straw provides a nice soft bed for your horse.</p>
<p><em>Sawdust and Wood Shavings</em>. Sawdust is high absorbing, but if your horse is prone to respiratory problems it should not be used. A better alternative is wood shavings. Wood shavings are easy to muck out and can be found easily at lumberyards, feed stores, and bedding suppliers. Processed wood shavings are preferred over shavings found at lumberyards. The shavings at lumberyards may have harmful debris or toxic wood chips and dust. Processed wood shavings are more expensive, but are clean and dust free and do not contain any toxics that may be harmful to your horse. Sawdust and wood shavings do not decompose well in your compost pile.</p>
<p><em>Shredded Paper and Cardboard</em>. Very inexpensive as well as absorbent. It provides comfort for your horse; however, it compresses easily and requires a large amount to create a bed and to keep the bed maintained. Paper and cardboard bedding keeps your horse cleaner than other bedding products and does provide warmth. Disposing the bedding can be problematic and the most effective method is to burn it. Some horse owners use straw or wood shavings to supplement the paper and cardboard.</p>
<p><em>Rubber Matting</em>. Many advantages such as being completely dust free, drains well and is warm. The initial cost to put in rubber matting can be high, but the recurring costs to maintain bedding can be very low. It is very safe for your horse. Many horse owners add a little bedding, such as straw, to make a bed comfortable enough for you horse to lie in or if the drainage under the matting is not adequate.</p>
<p>No matter your bedding of choice, it needs to be cleaned at least once-a-day to keep it safe and dry for your horse. You don&#8217;t want to promote a bacteria breeding ground or to allow soiled bedding to cause your horse health problems. Horse bedding that is consistently looked after does not take long to maintain each day.</p>
<p> <a class="highslide" onclick="return vz.expand(this)" href="http://www.therideronline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/IdalgoInStable2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1070" title="IdalgoInStable" src="http://www.therideronline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/IdalgoInStable2.jpg" alt="IdalgoInStable" width="323" height="230" /></a></p>
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